20 November 2010 at 8:23 pm #102petitepoupeeParticipant
Would someone like to tell me, in six lines or so, what’s involved in removing the vent flap on a Duck – I’ve got an annoying leak from somewhere near the centre and I don’t want to short out the MP3 player while listening to the Hot Club Of France via the USB plug-in.
(who said 2CV’s were “passé”?)22 November 2010 at 1:44 pm #474JBNParticipant
OK. This is just from memory. It is very straight forward.
- Remove black plastic dash
- you need a 1/4″ drive socket around the 5mm size, preferably with a screwdriver type driver. I think there are 14 screws and the nuts can easily be lost.
- the bright metal strip above the ventilation flap has all the screw threads attached to it. I suggest you DON’T completely remove the nuts.
- get some masking tape and stick that immediately above the top of the rubber and down the sides of the rubber for about 1″.
- prise open the metal strip and the rubber flap underneath
- squease a bead of black automotive silicone between the rubber and the body (this is why you put the masking tape there to stop excess silicone from getting onto the body above the rubber). Try not to get it on the screw threads.
- push the metal strip and rubber against the body, wiping off excess silicone as it gets squeased out. I have a roll of toilet paper handy for this.
- working inside the car, start to tighten all the nuts. Work quickly before the silicone dries.
- remove any remaining excess silicone.
- remove the masking tape
This seals the rubber flap. On a new one, you would use double sided automotive tape. This is not so successful on old (dirty) rubber flap in situ.
The other source of leaks are the windscreen wiper posts that come through the two holes in the body. For this you need new rubber grommets to seal between the metal caps and the body. You may have to make your own to get the correct size.
Finally, drill a hole (about 8mm bit) on the front floor just back from the sloping bit, on both the left and right side. Once you remove the floor mat, you will see indented channels that meet in a cross (or a T). Position the hole where they join. This will act as a drain hole as 2CVs always leak, including via the door seals when you wash them.
Finally, I would consider some sort of plastic “roof” over your unit to be really on the safe side.
John22 November 2010 at 9:52 pm #475petitepoupeeParticipant
John, thanks for taking the time to do that … I’ll give it a go, as well as checking the wiper posts as a possibility. The rest of the car is unbelievably watertight, as we know from the drive back to Adelaide after picking it up: we went through a downpour of truly tropical intensity and the only leak was the one in question.
Drilling holes in the floor? I’ll take a rain check 😮 on that for the moment, as the floor is still utterly rust free, with the original unmarked rubber mat in situ.
As for a “roof” for the MP3 – yes, we carry a handy shopping bag for a cover. As well, this little baby’s going to be under cover whenever garaged at home, and it’s a second car, so when it’s raining, or Adelaide’s having a stinker of a hot summer day we’ll be in the Grey Nomad-mobile, the Bi-turbo 7 speed DSG 4WD airconditioned VW camper. Thanks again.
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